Need to change my cambelt on my TZD

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 2:27 pm

Sorry, I mis-read it. I was never really involved in water pump design, but if the diameter is 1cm smaller then I would be inclined to put it on. If there's 1cm more clearance between the block and impeller, then I would send it back. From my experience it should be in the order of mm clearance.

Actually, that reminds me of a quality problem at QH we had once. It was for an pump for GM/Holden in Australia, and the impeller size should have been measured to keep track of the wear on the injection mould tool. This didn't happen and the first we knew of the problem was that the impellers were so large that they fouled the block on the engine assembly line. Cue a (very expensive) stoppage of the production line, as all the pumps made after that date had the same problem...

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Wed Sep 28, 2011 5:43 pm

New problem. Pump now fitted, so thought it was time to get the new belt on. Thing is, I slackened off the tensioner thinking I would replace it. As it happens, I can't get the bloomin' thing off and it feels fine to me, so I was planning on just leaving it in place.

Problem is, I can't move it far enough to enable me to get the belt on. The spring pushing on the end is REALLY shoving some. And of course there's no space for me to get the necessary three arms in. Any tips or is something wrong here? I just want it running again!!

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:06 pm

Use 3/8" drive to hold tensioner in the slack position, tighten securing bolts, get belt on, slacken securing bolts.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:12 pm

Really struggling to get much leverage via the 3/8 extension. My normal size one won't fit between adjuster and wing and the short one gives me no leverage at all really. Still got the problem that holding the tension and adjusting the adjuster at the same time seems to require more arms than I possess!

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Wed Sep 28, 2011 8:04 pm

You need:

8mm Citroen sump plug sock from Halfords

Mole grips for socket

13mm spanner

Jobbed!

citronut · Post by **citronut** » Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:40 am

i use a very short extention (about an inch length ) on a 3/8th drive ratchet,

but you might be able to use a 1/2 inch drive ratchet with a1/2inch down to 3/8th reducer/addapter,
if thats not enough leverage you could stick a 2 foot knukle bar down there

regards malcolm

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Thu Sep 29, 2011 11:27 am

Thanks for the tips! Just so happens that I've just taken delivery of the sump plug socket thing, so I'll give that a go.

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Thu Sep 29, 2011 2:42 pm

New belt fitted and all is well. Thanks to everyone for their help. There's no escaping the fact that this place is AMAZINGLY helpful!

Runs fine. Now waiting for a new fan switch and to fit the temp gauge before filling up the coolant and getting her back on the road.

Post by **Defender110** » Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:00 pm

Excellent well done, hope you have that job satisfaction buzz

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:49 pm

Yeah, sort of. Seems I've managed to lose whatever sort of fixings hold the lower inner wing panel in place. Anyone know what I'm looking for and, more importantly, where I can find more?

Stinkwheel · Post by **Stinkwheel** » Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:59 pm

Scrap Yard Ian

Black plastic push through fixings if i remember rightly, all citroens used them in similar places. i find robbing them from Xantias very satisfying

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:06 pm

Fir tree clips! Your factors should have various sizes in, or for the ones that are accessible both sides a plastic number plate screw and nut works OK

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Thu Sep 29, 2011 5:16 pm

Fir tree clips it is then. Presumably those are the things I should have more of in the Range Rover to hold the door cards on properly.

Des Smith · Post by **Des Smith** » Wed Oct 05, 2011 11:53 pm

Stinkwheel wrote:i find robbing them from Xantias very satisfying

You cruel heartless bastard! You really hate Xantias, don't you?

themildbunch · Post by **themildbunch** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:55 pm

OK, done this job on my tzd manual before but I'm going to do my auto this week and wondered about retightening the crank pulley bolt...

I expect holding the engine on the handbrake won't work on an auto so what do you do to lock it? Is it safe to use the crank locking hole behind the starter to stop the engine moving while you torque up the bolt?
I have visions of my drill bit cracking and falling into the abyss!

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Need to change my cambelt on my TZD

tightening crank bolt on an auto..