BX 16v tips on buying

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Turbo Killer
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BX 16v tips on buying

Post by Turbo Killer » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:09 pm

I already have a really nice BX diesel saloon, but i got a call from a friend about a G reg black 16v with black leather interior, the owner has passed away and the car needs to be sold, i have no idea of the condition etc, i am going to have a look at it tomorrow, any tips on what i should look out for?
If the car is a wreck, is it worth getting for 16v engine?

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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by Mickey taker » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:39 pm

Same as any bx, check door hinge panels ,rear wheel arches ,boot floor and inner front wings, do you know when it was last on the road ? i.e any mot, tax or service history, might be worth putting a little bit of oil down the spark plug holes before attempting to start the car if it had been standing
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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by Tim Leech » Tue Nov 13, 2012 1:11 pm

Same as Mick says, if it does run get the cambelt and tensioners done immediatly!
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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by Dollywobbler » Tue Nov 13, 2012 1:14 pm

Engines definitely have value, so worth having even if it's just for that.

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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by Turbo Killer » Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:50 pm

Thank you all for the replies. I'll try to find out more this evening. I hope its a minter, but i suppose i can always dream :(

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Mike P
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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by Mike P » Tue Nov 13, 2012 8:37 pm

Good luck.

The value of the engine packages has dipped recently due to the over supply into the market because so many Bx's and 405's have been pulled apart in recent years and that there are less 205 owners with money to spend on second cars in the current economic climate.

Details on the car would be appreciated if you don't buy it.

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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by Turbo Killer » Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:40 pm

If it turns out a no goer for me, I'll pass the details on. The car is in Warrington, Cheshire.

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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by RobC » Wed Nov 14, 2012 10:39 am

As above, check for usual BX things. A few quirks of the model...

With the ignition on, firstly ensure that the orange 'K' light on the dash (opposite the ABS light) comes on.. and then goes out once the engine starts. If it stays lit then it indicates a fault (which may be minor of course, but at least you'll know the warning system works)
Don't be too alarmed if the engine sounds rough at idle once its warmed up... most valvers do!
The idle speed is highly unlikely to be less than 1000rpm, despite the fact its meant to be c.850rpm.


If it turns out to be a scrapper I would love to get my hands on the badges...!
1991 Citroen BX 16v

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Kitch
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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by Kitch » Wed Nov 14, 2012 12:56 pm

RobC wrote:As above, check for usual BX things. A few quirks of the model...

With the ignition on, firstly ensure that the orange 'K' light on the dash (opposite the ABS light) comes on.. and then goes out once the engine starts. If it stays lit then it indicates a fault (which may be minor of course, but at least you'll know the warning system works)
Don't be too alarmed if the engine sounds rough at idle once its warmed up... most valvers do!
The idle speed is highly unlikely to be less than 1000rpm, despite the fact its meant to be c.850rpm.


If it turns out to be a scrapper I would love to get my hands on the badges...!
K light only applies to three-row ECU cars, which most aren't.
The national BX register - click to submit a car!

1983 16TRS (Sunrise red) - 1987 DTR Turbo est (Venetian red) - 1989 16 Valve (Venetian red) - 1990 16 Valve (Venetian red)

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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by Kitch » Wed Nov 14, 2012 1:09 pm

As already said, the 16v is no more complex than a regular BX. In fact, it's probably less complex than a TD overall. Yes it has EFi, but it's a very simple system to understand and easy to diagnose faults on.

The idle is often lumpy - usually needs the air flow meter mixture adjusting. Throttle positioning switches can fail, or go out of alignment making it hard for the car to idle at all when warm. Leaks and holes in vacuum hoses also play havoc with ticking over at idle. You can get them to idle smoothly, but it took me about 3 years of playing :lol: And as Rob said, most idle at an indicated 1000rpm.
Engines can be tappety - the tappets themselves are hydraulic. They can be overhauled to quieten them down, but it involves removing the cams. Injectors can tick quite loudly when the bonnet's open. Quoted as 160bhp when new, but a good one will make around 150-155 on the average dyno today. The earlier 2-row ECU cars (all ph1 and ph2 up to late 1991) are designed to run unleaded fuel.
Without sounding like a wanker, it should be quick on the road. With no passengers, you should feel a bit of a surge at around 4000rpm. It should pull hard to the red line too. Put any weight in it and the relative lack of torque starts to become obvious, but overall it's surprising what modern stuff they'll keep up with.

Brakes are standard BX, except the discs are vented on the front. ABS sensors can be a bitch to find (though there are ways around it for the MOT) and faults are common (ABS light won't go out). Suspension is standard BX, but with altered ride settings. Transmission is also regular BX, though the ratios differ from standard cars quite considerably.

Body is pretty good at resisting rust compared with most stuff of the same era, but once they start they can deteriorate quickly. Check A-pillars, inner wings under LHM tank and air filter/ABS unit, dog legs at base of C-pillars and all along the sills. They're often jacked up in the wrong places, which ruins the underseal and allows moisture in.

Overall they're really easy. Got a bit of a rep for being complicated from some who don't really know the cars at all. No harder to run than an average BX, just not quite as smooth and bloody hell are they noisy! Especially on the motorway! Classic insurance keeps insurance cheap (my 16v costs less to insure than any of my other cars) and fuel consumption is fair if you can keep off the loud pedal......which it's quite hard to resist sometimes!

HTH
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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by Turbo Killer » Wed Nov 14, 2012 1:45 pm

I went to look at the car this morning, firstly the roof needs attention, it appears the top gel coat has failed in places and needs sealing/paint etc, the bonnet also needs some paint. The front windscreen side pillars are a little crusty, but not rotten.
The front end of the car is really good, inner wings are excellent and so are the front door hinge posts. The boot floor also appears to be fine, i removed the boot mat and had a good look along the side seams etc. The front of the rear arch/door area is crusty and will require cutting out and new metal on both sides, there is also a localised rust spot on the inside of the NSR sill. Some rust on the inside rear corner lower section of passenger door.
From what i could see on the highest ride setting the underneath of the car looks ok.
The engine bay and engine are very clean, engine starts fine and once warmed, idles OK, a little lumpy, but fine. I didn't get chance to drive the car, but i selected all the gears easily and took up some drive, only a small amount of clutch though?
ABS light OK.
Recent walker exhaust.
Hydraulics fine, rises falls ok, pump clicks normal, spheres quite recent and hydraulic lines replaced front to rear also.
Sunroof a bit sluggish and glass frame a bit rusty( just like on mine :roll: ) drivers side window doesn't work.
Tyres need replacing, black speedline alloys look really nice.
The family are asking £500 for the car, it has been looked after over the years and the owner was enthusiastic about the car, the bottom end was overhauled not long ago, rings etc as it was becoming a bit smokey.

I managed to take a few pics before my camera died, what do you guys think, I'm really in a dilema :cry:

Image

Scaby roof!
Image

Laquer peeling.
Image

Nice wheels and headlamp protectors 8)
Image

Image

The not so good bits...
Image
Image
Image

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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by RobC » Wed Nov 14, 2012 1:52 pm

Get it! You will need to throw a few hundred at the bodywork but I'd say £500's well worth it, considering once in good nick you're looking at £1500.
1991 Citroen BX 16v

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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by RobC » Wed Nov 14, 2012 1:54 pm

Kitch wrote:
RobC wrote:As above, check for usual BX things. A few quirks of the model...

With the ignition on, firstly ensure that the orange 'K' light on the dash (opposite the ABS light) comes on.. and then goes out once the engine starts. If it stays lit then it indicates a fault (which may be minor of course, but at least you'll know the warning system works)
Don't be too alarmed if the engine sounds rough at idle once its warmed up... most valvers do!
The idle speed is highly unlikely to be less than 1000rpm, despite the fact its meant to be c.850rpm.


If it turns out to be a scrapper I would love to get my hands on the badges...!
K light only applies to three-row ECU cars, which most aren't.

Didn't know that, thanks!
1991 Citroen BX 16v

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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by Dollywobbler » Wed Nov 14, 2012 2:21 pm

Sounds like value for me, though you could easily end up spending at least the purchase price again as you go rot hunting by the look of it, especially if paint is needed. Rot will need catching pretty quickly, but the paint is at least not too urgent. They are insane fun.

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Re: BX 16v tips on buying

Post by mds141 » Wed Nov 14, 2012 3:24 pm

I'd say go for it. I spent far too much on mine and don't regret it. As Ian said, they are highly addictive.
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