Replacing Rear Arm Bearings

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mat_fenwick
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Replacing Rear Arm Bearings

Post by mat_fenwick » Tue Dec 15, 2009 4:51 pm

Tools Required

24mm socket and spanner,13, 14 & 17mm sockets, Large hammers, various sockets, drifts. Optional: Mig Welder
1 x Rear Arm Bearing Kit per side, 1 x spacer per side. Rear Arm Kit available from GSF Car Parts part number N42358. 514327 shim set is only availabe from Citroen..
Please note, these part numbers and instructions do NOT apply to the BX 4x4.

Method

NB: If car has ABS, unclip sensor wire connector under rear sear, and push rubber bung and wire through bulkhead.

Jack up the rear of the car, remove rear wheels, and place axle stands under the rear suspension beam. Loosen 2 x 13mm bolts securing anti roll bar to the arm.

Place height lever in the LOW position to remove suspension pressure. Ensure all pressure is gone from rear suspension before further dismantling. Note that the car will change position on the axle stands slightly as the front drops.

Undo rear caliper (2 x 17mm bolts) and unclip brake pipe from arm. Tie caliper out of the way in order that brake pipe is not damaged. (Do not remove or loosen the long 8mm nut and bolt that holds that pads in, leaving this in place will prevent caliper from leaking fluid)

Remove U-clip that secures rear suspension arm pin to arm using pliers. Pull the long metal rod from the suspension cylinder back, keeping it inside the rubber gaiter.

Remove the 2 x 13mm bolts securing anti roll bar to the arm.

Using long bar/ratchet, undo the 24mm nut and bolt securing the arm. Remove the arm from car.

Mount arm in vice.

Using suitable socket (I used a long 14mm socket) and hammer, knock through the metal spacer tube..
The remains of the arm seals, bearing cage and spacers usually fall out, if not prise them out with a pry bar or large screwdriver..

Remove the pivot protector (plastic inner tube) . (sometime they come out easily, other times you have to resort to bashing them out)

Knock off the bearing outer-ring using something like a hard metal pipe or drift. If it does not shift I suggest Mig welding round the remains of the bearing collar inside the arm. If you do not have a welder, clean carefully inside the arm with WD40, sandpaper, then attempt to hit them out once you can see where they are. Clean inside arm with oil and a cloth, ensuring all dirt and rust is removed. Lightly grease inside the arm.

Insert new arm bearing shells at both ends, greasing them thinly and tap into place using 24mm socket and hammer. Fit and grease new bearings.

Assemble the metal spacer tube and roller-bearing, plus the oil seal thrust bush at one side.
Don't forget to insert the shim (See diagram, 514327) between bearing and thrust bush. Fit this part to the outer side of rear arm.

Then fully grease the new bearings. Fill plastic spacer tube with oil/grease.
Insert half assembled spacer and bearing into arm, and build up the bearing, seal etc on the other side.
Refitting the rebuilt rear arm in reverse procedure to dismantling.
13kgf/m is the suggested torque for the 24mm bolt.
Don't forget to bleed the rear brakes if you have split the rear caliper

Image

Thanks for Jon Wood for the write up.
Last edited by mat_fenwick on Fri Oct 29, 2010 10:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
Image

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Rear Arm unit

Post by scotty » Tue Sep 14, 2010 4:11 pm

Hi,
Anybody know where i can get a rear arm unit overhauled at all, as one of mine has gone elongated!
Scott Blackman, BX19TXD Break, JAGUAR XJS V12

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Post by Gibbo2286 » Tue Sep 14, 2010 5:34 pm

Look for a small local engineering workshop, something on a par with Fred Dibnah. :) Gibbo.

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Post by Defender110 » Tue Sep 14, 2010 8:26 pm

How could a deceased engineer help???
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Post by Linegeist » Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:13 pm

One of my arms had worn itself an egg-shaped slot at one end because the PO had neglected the bearing for so long. I couldn't get the seal to seat correctly.

I mig-welded layers of fresh metal onto the low areas, and then dressed them back with a half round file, before finishing off with a dremel and a 1" grinder.

Took me about 2 hours all in ..........

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Post by Defender110 » Wed Sep 15, 2010 9:24 pm

Is it always the near side that wears / gets damaged the quickest
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1987 Citroen BX MK1 diesel estate.
1997 Mercedes C230 W202 - daily driver.
2010 BMW X1 SE 2.0D Auto - Her indoors daily driver.
2003 Land Rover Discovery TD5 - hobby days and camping.
1993 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi 3 door - in need of TLC

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Post by rayfenwick » Wed Sep 15, 2010 11:54 pm

Linegeist wrote:One of my arms had worn itself an egg-shaped slot at one end....

I mig-welded layers of fresh metal .....Took me about 2 hours all in ..........
I'm amazed you could weld at all with an egg-shaped slot at the end of one of your arms... ;)
Ray

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Post by NZ16v » Thu Sep 16, 2010 11:26 am

^my father has a reliable engineeer, who re-machines the bearing casings true, then adds bronze bushes to put them back to factory dimensions-so you can use all factory bits'n'bobs as replacements.

Not cheap, but bloody good result, as this is a recurring problem in badly serviced BXes
one thing better than owning a 16v-owning TWO 16vs

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Post by Linegeist » Thu Sep 16, 2010 12:10 pm

rayfenwick wrote:
Linegeist wrote:One of my arms had worn itself an egg-shaped slot at one end....

I mig-welded layers of fresh metal .....Took me about 2 hours all in ..........
I'm amazed you could weld at all with an egg-shaped slot at the end of one of your arms... ;)
](*,) :lol: - See? English again!! Now if we all used a proper language on here (like German) this kind of misinterprewossname couldn't happen see ............... ? :P :lol:

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rayfenwick
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Post by rayfenwick » Thu Sep 16, 2010 1:09 pm

Don't worry Bob - nothing at all wrong with your English (as an ex EFL teacher I feel reasonably qualified to say that :) )

Just me trying to get a cheap laugh... :oops:
Ray

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2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)

1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)

www.citroencarclub.co.uk

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Post by KevR » Tue Sep 21, 2010 8:41 am

Linegeist wrote:
](*,) :lol: - See? English again!! Now if we all used a proper language on here (like German) this kind of misinterprewossname couldn't happen see ............... ? :P :lol:
True, but give it a few weeks and we'd all be itching to go off and invade Poland or something.... :wink:
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Post by Linegeist » Tue Sep 21, 2010 8:45 am

KevR wrote:True, but give it a few weeks and we'd all be itching to go off and invade Poland or something.... :wink:
You make it sound like that is a BAD thing ................... 8-[ :-k :wink:

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Post by KevR » Tue Sep 21, 2010 8:52 am

Linegeist wrote:
KevR wrote:True, but give it a few weeks and we'd all be itching to go off and invade Poland or something.... :wink:
You make it sound like that is a BAD thing ................... 8-[ :-k :wink:
:lol: :lol:
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!

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rayfenwick
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Post by rayfenwick » Tue Sep 21, 2010 9:41 am

..given Natasha's opinion of the accountants at the Polish office of her ex-company, she'd say it would be a good thing....
Ray

The Fleet (most recent first):
2000 Citroën XM 3.0 24V V6 Exclusive Auto (pre-MOT)
1997 Citroën XM 2.0 TCT Exclusive Auto (for sale)
1979 Citroën CX 2.4 EI Cmatic Prestige (slowly being restored)

1992 Alfa Romeo 164 Lusso 3.0 v6 12v Manual (on the to-do list)

www.citroencarclub.co.uk

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Post by Adrian E » Tue Oct 26, 2010 3:15 pm

One tip I would make to the write up above is to crack the 4 bolts holding the anti roll bar in place (2 each side) before relieving all pressure in the system - you will struggle to get a socket onto the bolts due to the position the heads of the bolts end up in.

Guess how I found that out :roll: