To scrap or not to scrap, that is the question...

Jack · Post by **Jack** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 5:39 pm

New battery and alarm issues sorted. Engine starts, tickover straight to 2000 rising up to 2700 then back to 2000. I must say it seemed relatively happy while it did that. After a few cycles of this fell back to 1500 and I switched off with the rad light on.

Enough water a;ready in to just wet the tip of my finger. Topped up water to absolute max, started engine again and rad light still on. Been there got the T-shirt, and it's getting dark. Good news is it rises up perfectly so can now be moved.

jonathan_dyane · Post by **jonathan_dyane** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 6:01 pm

Jack wrote:New battery and alarm issues sorted. Engine starts, tickover straight to 2000 rising up to 2700 then back to 2000. I must say it seemed relatively happy while it did that. After a few cycles of this fell back to 1500 and I switched off with the rad light on.

OK, I know little about engine management systems, but this sounds to me very much behaviour due to a clueless 'fitter' having messed up every setting possible due to fiddling ineptly with everything in a vain search for the 'problem' but without any skill, empathy or logic. If you can manage to reset everything to the proper spec, then you can begin to look for the actual original problem...

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 8:37 pm

Jack wrote:New battery and alarm issues sorted. Engine starts, tickover straight to 2000 rising up to 2700 then back to 2000. I must say it seemed relatively happy while it did that. After a few cycles of this fell back to 1500 and I switched off with the rad light on.

Enough water a;ready in to just wet the tip of my finger. Topped up water to absolute max, started engine again and rad light still on. Been there got the T-shirt, and it's getting dark. Good news is it rises up perfectly so can now be moved.

Good news! Sounds like it's moving again! The low level lamp may just be a dodgey connection on the plug so if it's topped up fully it's clearly faulty, assuming thats the lamp you're on about.

If the TPS sensor is out, the idle valve is doing all the work hence the high revs. This is starting to sound alot less knackered by the day, although obviously it needs a chance to fully warm up and have the fans cut in etc.

Jack · Post by **Jack** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 8:22 am

Jonathan – agreed 100%. First the pipes need refitting, and if they blocked anything up that needs sorting. I don’t know exactly what this mechanic did, and not even the garage knows where he went!

Kitch, TBH, the heating is now the main issue to resolve – or explain, as the car has been better than the warning lights for years. It probably still is. It sounds to me like the garage sorted the ECU to some extent to drive it back to me (=just to get rid of it), but that’s just a mile. I still have no confidence to drive it any distance for fear of major damage.

I’m sorry but it maybe tomorrow before I have time to look at it again. Want to post a video of the dashboard while the engine is running.... It'll have great sound because the garage couldn't fit Scorpions round cats properly either javascript:emoticon(':roll:')

demag · Post by **demag** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 11:22 am

Jack does the rad light come on straight away and stay lit? Or when the engine has warmed up? If it lights straight away or fairly quickly from start then I can't see this being mechanical, more like a faulty switch like Kitch said. So if the engine sounds ok and not clanky/knocking the chances are its good.

Jack · Post by **Jack** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:09 pm

instant! trouble is, I've already had a big problem when it really did get hot!

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:37 pm

Right Jack, do us a favour....

Tomorrow when you go out, start the car up and fastidle it for around 50secs, say 2.5k revs or something. Straight away.

Then knock it off, and undo the expansion tank cap. Tell us what happens when you do that.

(only works from cold)