Best oil for a BX diesel.

Mothman · Post by **Mothman** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:15 pm

I really dont know it its worth it, she passed the MOT ok but the garage recommended the stuff a while back. Ile go and look up the emission test from last year and compare them.

Andy

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:18 pm

I'm skeptical that engine flush can do harm - despite people claiming it can wash depsits from where they are sitting into oilways and block them - I've yet to hear of this actually happening to someone.

If there's no problem though, I'd agree with Mulley and say save your cash. Not sure they'd help with emissions however...

I've used Forte flush before to (sucessfully) cure sticking hydraulic tappets, and it has worked long term with no subsequent problems.

Mothman · Post by **Mothman** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:23 pm

Just looked up the emissions test from last year. Ime afraid i dont know bugger all what they mean but there is a slight difference.
Last years MOT showed a figure of 0.41, this year showed 0.34 so i assume thats better. Again, ive no idea whether either result is good or bad as long as its a pass.
I reccon ile save the pennies instead.

Thanks all.

Andy

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 10:17 pm

I reckon the mark-up is better on the engine flushes than the oil, hence why some garages are so keen to use them...

Probably no harm, but there doesn't seem to be much harm in NOT using them either. As has been said, 15w40 of something oily will do. I shamelessly buy oil from supermarkets. I think Wilko's sells Comma stuff and it's certainly not pricey.

Gibbo2286 · Post by **Gibbo2286** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:19 am

With modern detergent oils from about the 1960s there's been no need for flushing oils, prior to that the shite used to collect as sludge in the various niches and crevices and at the bottom of the sump.

We used to remove sumps at 12,000 miles and there'd be half an inch of solid mud in the bottom.

Detergent oils stopped all that, essentially they're designed to keep the muck in suspension so it gets taken out at each pass through the oil filter.

Of course if you have an engine that's been neglected, done a hundred thousand miles without an oil or filter change that's a different matter. Gibbo.

Mothman · Post by **Mothman** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 8:59 pm

All sorted now, thanks guys for all your very helpful comments, went for Comma in the end as 12 quid for 5 litres was better than the local Shell garage who wanted 30 for their variety so i thought stuff them.
Replaced all the filters as well, was rather surprised to find the fuel filter in 3 pieces, the paper section having separated from the metal top and bottom so this wasnt probably doing its job properly. Put a different make in this time. Job done now though.

Andy

electrokid · Post by **electrokid** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 9:20 pm

I use flushing oil every every fifth or sixth oil change just because it seems like a good idea.

Philip Chidlow · Post by **Philip Chidlow** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:46 am

Further to my thoughts on the blog, I thought I'd revive this thread.

After having done a lot of internet reading (and reading this thread) I've come to the conclusion that something like a 15W40 Total Quartz 7000 Semi-synthetic oil would be just dandy for my diesel. But, as the car has performed faultlessly with Synthetic virtually all its life, I think a compromise is an option. Mobil 1 High mileage 10W40 meets and exceeds all the requirements, and overkill or not - it's hardly going to do much harm. Trouble is is finding it!

Post by **docchevron** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 9:09 pm

Quartz 7000 is 10/40 semi. It's what I use in the valver.
Seriousley, for a TD, or Na, then Quartz 5000 15/40 is just dandy.

*edited to add the 0 I forgot!

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 10:45 pm

I think the point that has been made about simply making sure the oil is changed frequently rather than exactly what grade it is. All I've ever done is shove the cheapest 15w/40 mineral oil in to any XUD engine every 5000 miles, and often their general condition (cold starting, economy etc..) has improved over time.

Also, if you can afford it at the time, and have the space, buy oil by the drum. 205 litres is less than £200, which means about £5 for a sumpfull, and with oil filters at ~£3 you can do an oil service for £8. SooperCheap!

Philip Chidlow · Post by **Philip Chidlow** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:01 pm

Interesting, as the only factor seems to be how frequently you want to change the oil. Can't think that quality oils offer so little other than longevity, but hey. So, I think I'll be putting a good quality 15W-40 semi in it - Mobil, Total or whatever. A happy compromise.

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:07 pm

That's still going to cost you £20 for the oil. Use cheap oil and change it every 2000 miles.

That'll be far better for it than "better" oil...

Philip Chidlow · Post by **Philip Chidlow** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:16 pm

Why would I want to change the oil every 2000 miles to save a few quid? I assume the filter'd need changing too. Personal preference I guess. BUT if it can be proved that using very cheap oil but changing it every 2k miles or so can be demonstratively better for the engine over three or so year's use, and save money, then maybe I'd think about it.

It is, as I say, an interesting debate.

But the diesel's getting Mobil 1 10W40 in the meantime

smiffy1071 · Post by **smiffy1071** » Sun Apr 03, 2011 3:40 am

I'm with David on this, Diesel engines will produce more soot/carbon deposits (which is why their engine oil goes black so quickly after a change).
This carbon floating around in the oil will cause premature wear if left in there too long.
Just on that basis alone, I'd rather use cheap oil, and change it more often.

Philip Chidlow · Post by **Philip Chidlow** » Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:42 am

I'll let you all know what I decide. At the moment it's Total 5000 15W-40 0r Mobil equivalent - or possibly Castrol Magnatec Diesel 10W40 B3 Oil, getting my attention. And changing it every 5-6k miles.