Hi Todd,
I think the original reason for using this valve was to allow LHM to flow in one direction only, to act as a simple pump.
So to save costs, the system was modified, and supplied without the valve.
If you have the original valve on your strut, and the lower part is in good condition, then you can replace the offending tube insitu, with any suitable diameter tube. Thus saving the task of removing and refiting the metal clamp.
Good luck
Leak, bottom of front strut.
Yes any suitable tube will do, providing it will withstand LHM.
I use silicone tube.
My old link
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... php?t=8627
I use silicone tube.
My old link
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... php?t=8627
Exactly as already suggested in my earlier posting in this thread and as Toddao has an unmolested original fitment MK1 design of strut vent/return leak off pipes, he only needs to replace the two lengths of rubber pipe, and job done in 5 minutes !Brian wrote:If you have the original valve on your strut, and the lower part is in good condition, then you can replace the offending tube insitu, with any suitable diameter tube. Thus saving the task of removing and refiting the metal clamp.
Good luck
Oh Toddao BTW I see it cost you 15 Euro's which works out at £13.36 on today's exchange rates so the new one on E-Bay(UK) is relatively reasonably priced at £7.79 (If no one else was to bid for it of course) and delivered directly to your front door without even having to walk out thro' it to go and collect it from the main dealers or GSFRxBX wrote: So I converted my MK2 BX's set up to the MK1 design when the rubber pipes split/failed with age (Which was easy enough to do by leaving the old rubber block still attached to the strut/leg and then get a pair of nylon connector ferules to fit into the rubber block which I had from my MK1 BX's which I'd broken up for spares (You may need to trim any remnant of the rubber pipe above the block though) then just work out what the actual length of pipe from some random length of thick-wall/small-bore rubber pipe which is LHM suitable to re-connect up from the strut to fixed metal pipes on the inner wing !
The next time the pipe splits all that's needed is to keep some random rubber pipe sourced from the breakers yard off an Xantia or BX etc. say from some piping from the long lengths of return pipes etc. you can see going back to the LHM tank.
I have also used the rubber vacuum pipe from the carb to air filter box as fitted to Fix Or Repair Daily CVH engined Escort/Orions as these had a good length of straight thick-wall/small-bore rubber pipe fitted to them !
Both MK1 and MK2 BX's had the same stainless steel back plate and S/S strap which clamps the common rubber block to the strut (Which are fiddly to re-use with success so that's why the MK1 BX is a much better setup/design for these particular pipes) !
Anyhow Toddao, I hope this maybe of help to you and all the best to a quick/rapid repair !
- DLM
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Recent scruffy diesel n/a estate - "The Red Shed" - is no longer mine. - x 9
There's virtually nowhere for it to leak from normally except the driveshaft seals where the driveshafts enter the box. Have you taken a driveshaft off lately, or been involved in a bit of mechanical heave-ho with one of the front wheels/hubs?Any ideas where the transmission fluid would likely be leaking from?
There is what looks like a drain plug bolt at the rear of the box and the lowest extremity too - the thing that hits the subframe with a clunk on starting if the anti-rotation bush under the engine is really knackered. I think I've seen minor leaks there, but it's the lowest point of the box so tracing upwards from there may be needed. That assumes the earlier BE2 gearbox layout is the same as the later BE3.
If it's leaking from there all you can really do is leave well alone (see next sentence) or nip up the bolt. I seem to recall that undoing it may leave you without some or all of the gears until you remove and reassemble the box.
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.
- docchevron
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Reverse IIRC.DLM wrote: I seem to recall that undoing it may leave you without some or all of the gears until you remove and reassemble the box.
Boxes can also leak along the joint where the diff housing bolts to the body of the box, and of course the input shaft, but yeah, nearly always it'll be a diff seal..
Happily, they are cheap, readily obtainable and easy to change!
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
I sorted this early this morning - it was really quite straightforward, taking 30 mins. It was the bottom piece that had split, rather than the actual, separate pipes. The hardest part was closing that clip again - did Citroen have a special tool for this?
Thankyou for all the replies and advice - really makes BX ownership possible and even enjoyable! One leak down, two more to go.
Thankyou for all the replies and advice - really makes BX ownership possible and even enjoyable! One leak down, two more to go.
Todd
this yellow writing is really hard to read
this yellow writing is really hard to read
i use a pair of side cuters the close those clips,i usualy line the tip of block up at the gap in the hub to strut pinch clamp and tape the two pipes to the leg, then just hook the clip onto the first latch by hand and pinch it together with the side cuters
regards malcolm
regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special
no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)