Tips for a 4x4 clutch change?

[RMS_TITANIC]

From what I can tell the transfer box may end up being quite the pain in the ass.

[David]

Have a look underneath the car. There's a bolt hole in the back of the engine, behind the sump that goes into the gearbox. If this bolt is present, then it's an utter pain in the neck. If this bolt is missing, then it'll be a fairly easy job.

I've not got a manual covering the 4x4 on the BX, but I have for the Peugeot 405. It states that to remove the clutch, then you need to remove the subframe, then the transfer box and finally the gearbox.

You'll probably end up having to remove a lot of parts and possibly the engine, but there's not enough room to get the engine out while the gearbox and transfer box are fitted to it, unless the subframe &/ or steering rack is off the car. If you unscrew the transfer box & gearbox, the transfer box will be out of line for refitting, as the mount behind the engine will move and misalign the transfer box. It's hard to explain, but simple if you see it.

If that bolt that I mentioned is missing, then you simply remove the gearbox without touching anything else on the 4x4 system, but unless you can find a way to get that bolt out, then the transfer box will have to come off as it's in the way of the said bolt.

Also, when removing the LH front drive shaft, it's very long, so you'll need to unscrew the top joint on the passenger drop link, pull it out of the anti roll bar and lie it flat so the drive shaft will come out of the gearbox, otherwise the CV joint will not come past the drop link,

The speedo cable removes the same way as a 2WD car does, it's just higher up.

There are also 5 large bolts on the back of the gearbox holding it to the transfer box, you'll need to remove these. Also, upon refitting make sure that you tighten all of them gradually don't put all the pressure on one bolt otherwise you'll snap the gearbox casting.

Make sure that you put plenty of grease on the transfer box splines when it's going back together.

Oh, there's a large bracket on the top of the gearbox and transfer box too, it goes under one of those 5 bolts that I've just mentioned and it bolts to the top of the gearbox, where the hydraulic pump goes on a diesel, you'll also need to remove it. I think it's 3 bolts.

Removal of the gearbox itself is similar to a standard 2wd car, so have a look through a Haynes manual, if you have one, to get a rough idea of what else you need to remove besides the 4x4 parts. If you do it logically, it's fairly straight forward. If you manage to get that bolt out of the back, leave it out. You'll thank yourself later. If you can get it out, then you don't need to remove the transfer box, Lower RH engine mount, propshaft or RH drive shaft, they can all stay in place. Just make sure that your clutch is in line so the gearbox will go in both the clutch and transfer box drive spines.

Hope that helps.

[RMS_TITANIC]

It'll be a big help thanks, I'm already familiar with changing a gearbox on a 2wd but I suspected the transferbix would throw a spanner in the works

[Jaba]

David, that was an impressive five star explanation of how to deal with a 4x4 clutch replacement.

[RMS_TITANIC]

Finally got underneath and it looks like I'm in luck. One or two gently mullered bolts tells me its been done before and from what I could see it looked like that bolt is already removed. But for the time being we just ended up adjusting the clutch pedal, it was very high and not sure why this idea didn't come to us sooner. I've taken a pic and circled what I belive to be where the bolt should be, its easier to see in person.

[RMS_TITANIC]

I finally got round to it, and turns out I was not in luck. The bolt is in the bottom right, which will not be going back in to this car.