DIY Return Pipe Work in Progress

[Brian]

Hi Folks,

Well, here is a picture of the progress so far.

Aluminium block, drilled and tapped to suit adapters

I do not want to cannibalize the existing pipework until I am 100% sure that it will work.

I notice that one of the 3 pipes is a larger diameter.
Also not sure of the internal diameter of the main pipe either side of the thickening.
Does anybody have an old broken one that can be measured?.

Any one carried out similar modifications, or have any ideas ?..

Maybe pooling all the mods/ideas for future use.

[pmh]

I thought about doing a similar rework after changing an octopus about 4 years ago. Unfortunately the water pump decided to expire and I got rid of the car -in a fit of peke - 1.7 DT. But I am back in the fold with a 1.9D now. I have yet to explore underneath in detail - waiting until I am back from an extended holiday.

At the time I posted a detailed "The Octopus - Do not be afraid" under a previous user id - but I have failed to find it with a Forum search.

Have you decided on the most suitable type of flexible pipe for LHM? I guess that probably tight radius bends are going to be the most difficult to prevent kinking. Probably the best way is to use copper pipe for the bends with suitable joiners. eg the FHC .

Are you going to adopt the existing layout with the 'coming together' under the car. I just wonder if it would be better to keep the 'manifold' somewhere on the bulkhead in the engine compartment and just extend all the existing pipes

When you have finished it would be good to see a parts list with suitable suppliers listed. A group buy of pipe would probably be cost effective as 100m prices are probably much cheaper.

A chart of pipe internal and external sizes by function would probably also be useful, to identify the best way of joining new to existing pipe work. I have often wondered why Cit did not standardise on just one size of pipe - is there a good reason?

Useful site that I had not sen before
http://tedperkins.com/high_volume_return_lines.htm

Useful reference site (probably you have been there, but useful for newbies)
http://www.mars.dti.ne.jp/~ynar/bxorg_a ... /m15e.html

[toddao]

All very interesting. I look forward to the finished result - certainly looks more 'techno' than the plain old rubber octopus and will probably outlast the car! I think that's a good idea re-locating the main 'junction' to a less sensitive/more accessable area.

I've got a couple of traditional Octopus' in stock still so I haven't had to fabricate anything yet. And they are still available from Citroen in their finest Polish rubber form for a heady €60!

[rmattila]

Just found out that I seem to be on my way to do something on the octopus of my Wife's Break. Seems to be leaking in an unidentifiable location somewhere among the pipe mess. If it turns out it is indeed broken and not just a leaky connection, I'll figure out what to do with it.

[Gibbo2286]

I made one of those about five years ago for my BX but I simply did the drillings as a match to the original rrubber block and pressed in short lengths of pipe and push fitted the trimmed off octopus ends.
The octopus always seems to fail in the same place where the pipes are vulcanised to the central block.

[Brian]

Hi Folks,
No further progress at the moment, trying to sort out connections to existing different diameter rubber pipework.

But while searching the web, I came across this company.
I have checked with their supplier, and the seals used will tolerate LHM.
Good news for any one making up a system that does not have engineering facilities.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230652998236? ... 1423.l2649

[Vanny]

Why not make the return lines from Kunifer? Flared at the ends and linked with silicon hose. Manifolds could be quickly made up with a pillar drill from a block of metal. A couple of coils to reduce vibration, follow the existing lines and probably clips, and it should outlast the vehicle?

I've considered this in the past, but havent had an octupus failure since 2001.

[rmattila]

Same place as always:



I'll take that off tomorrow and put a new one in once it arrives (was expecting mail today, but apparently was too optimistic), but as an investment in the future, I'll start thinking of an aluminium solution. Tap threaded holes in a chunk of aluminium, turn suitable studs on a lathe and fix the hoses with ordinary hose clamps, I guess..

[rmattila]

Took the old one off:

http://www.rmattila.com/images/remontit ... us_change/

The new one has not yet arrived, so I'm considering whether to wait until next week for the new part or to make a new one right now.

[rmattila]

Problem apparently solved:

http://www.rmattila.com/images/remontit ... index.html

[Gibbo2286]

You've got your hands all mucky

A suggestion though, take that ring off before working on cars, I've seen a mechanic with his finger ripped of when his ring got hooked up on an exhaust screw and I myself stuck my hand down close to the starter and shorted the ring between the pos connector and the crankcase causing a rather nasty burn.

[Way2go]

That's an impressive job you've made of that. And quick too considering the garage charges 3hrs labour when they do the normal replacement. Your time is not much outside that and you performed an analysis, design and acquired the parts from wherever to make it happen!

[Jaba]

Super job done there and professional standard documentation too.
So in my opinion - very well done by rmattila the Finn.

[rmattila]

Intermediate report from the primary possessor of the said vehicle (aka my Wife): no drops whatsoever at the company parking spot after workday. So it appears that after machining the starboard side brake disk and replacing front brake pipes & hoses, I may next turn my focus on welding activities (a couple of patches needed on the starboard side door trims before the salty season begins).

Anyway, the makeshift cephalopodus appears to be functioning in the intended manner.

[MULLEY]

Great name for your own hand made part.