Wheel studs needed for speedlines

[docchevron]

As has mostly been said above really.
5.5j and 6j speedlines use the same bolts.
The bolt in the piccy on the left is a pug bolt which is too short for the BX.
The bolt on the right is the bolt of choice.
Thats why it's stripped. It aint long enough.

BX bolts are the same as CX, XM and no doubt other stuff, Saxo maybe?

[Boxwolf]

Okay, I took one of the stripped studs to a couple car shops today while I was getting some break pad spring clips and a socket for the steering wheel and one of the blokes there said it looked like it was too short for the wheel as it had only stripped at the end. This pretty much echoes what's been said on here since my last post so I think we can establish the car has been fitted with the wrong studs at some stage, and needs a full set of the right ones.

I tried out the ones Matt sent me today and they fitted (and went in much further, though they made an odd creak noise when tightened) so I'm fairly convinced they are the ones that should have been on it in the first place, or at least similar. Only problem now is I need a set of them.

I have had a look at the threads on the hub and they look okay to me, I think in this case the studs were made to shred before the (harder to replace) hub.

[Philip Chidlow]

Blimey Boxwolf, you take some convincing, don't you.

Now, as you say you'll need 12 more bolts. I have four, and you can have those in exchange for a donation to the BXagon.

BTW my local Cit scrappie used to charge £1.50 a bolt. So that or greater would be welcome!

[Philip Chidlow]

PS If you need them before the National, I'll need P&P.

Not being mean, just need to get those donations in!

[Boxwolf]

Thanks Phil, but I think RXBX has a full set and offering but if that doesn't work out I'll probably buy yours.

[Philip Chidlow]

Fine! (You wouldn't be 'buying' them - I don't want any money for myself! - it just seems a good idea to benefit the charity )

[Boxwolf]

Thanks Phil, but I think RXBX has a full set and offering but if that doesn't work out I'll probably buy yours.

I am mistaken, he only has the chrome sort on the left so I still need 12 of the right studs. Are yours still on offer Phil?

[Philip Chidlow]

Of course. PM me and we can sort something out. Do you want me to see if Edwards has 8 more?

[Boxwolf]

If possible, yeah. PM sent

[Mike E (uk)]

I have a box of these here, probably a full set. Not counted them yet.

BXagon fund again

Mike

[Boxwolf]

Ok Mike I'll PM you

[Chris Abbott]

Hi BXWOLF,
Ive managed to get you the other 12 bolts you needed. Give me a ring and ill get them posted to you, Cheers Chris. :

[scarecrow]

This topic reminds of when my old Meteor (with Speedlines) got a puncture and I had to put the standard steel spare on instead. Everything was okay 'till I tried to drive off and the car wouldn't move more than a couple of inches back or forward.

Much head scratching later I discovered the studs were too long for the steel wheel and were locking up against the brake calliper!

That was a long day!

[Philip Chidlow]

PM me and give me your address. I'll send them, you can owe me a beer (and it's up to you if you make a BXagon contribution). But every little helps!

[RxBX]

This topic reminds of when my old Meteor (with Speedlines) got a puncture and I had to put the standard steel spare on instead. Everything was okay 'till I tried to drive off and the car wouldn't move more than a couple of inches back or forward.

Much head scratching later I discovered the studs were too long for the steel wheel and were locking up against the brake calliper!

That was a long day!

If you had the correct STUD-BOLTS (and length) with the flat face washers for the Speedlines and the CORRECT spare steel rim with the integral steel spacer which would have been a proper set to compliment the car you would have not had the problem as you found out !

Also not only would the Stud-bolts you were trying to use have been too long for the standard steel wheel they use a Cone-faced Stud-bolt so would not have secured the wheel to hub to the Designed integrity intent !

When I was refurbishing my Lady friend's Pug 309TD which has 14" Pepper-pots on it. I put a BX steel rim into the cars spare wheel carrier and furnished her with a set of four standard stud-bolts with a cone-face and explained that if she had a puncture she was to use these with with the steel spare !
If you had carried this 'optional' configuration with you would not have had the the problem, its all very simple if you know what your doing !

It really does amaze me how many 'Cowboy's' are out there not realizing the importance when changing a vehicles wheels from steels to Alloy's or vice/versa, of Stud-bolts and thread length and the importance of cone-faces (and cone-face angles) or flat-face washer fitments.
Like for example (on latest Fords) when using wheel nuts in a wheel hub with stud application and the use of a solid standard wheel nut with a machined cone say for a steel rim and then if an alloy wheel is fitted the wheel nut should have a integral cone washer.
I've seen this quite regular on Fords with alloys fitted (By some boy racer's) with normal wheel nuts and then the wheel's are coming loose and then they wonder why

It is VERY important to fit the correct wheel Stud-bolts or wheel nuts to studs with either Alloy or Steel wheel's for safety's sake as 'Boxwolf' has been finding out !