Wheel trims

[Defender110]

Bit of a dreamer for old second hand ones "Lots of scrapes and edge scuffs" plus he adds "Gift: x1 Cable Tie for added security"; These type of trims are held on with the wheel nuts so if you loose one a cable tie ain't going to save it

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-BX-14 ... 2327060434" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Kitch]

Apparently the metal ring is still intact too.

What metal ring.......?

[electrokid]

Well I've not lost one of these yet - but since around 2009 (when the wheels got a full refurb and the snow tyres fitted) I've put a small blob of silicone rubber where the trims and the wheels meet. It stops them rattling about as well.

[MULLEY]

I wonder if at some stage in the future, alloy's will be cheaper than trying to buy some wheel trims?

[Paul296]

I wonder if at some stage in the future, alloy's will be cheaper than trying to buy some wheel trims?

If you want NOS trims they probably are already! For those TG trims, in that condition, I'd pay 10 quid a piece tops (and I'm generous). In the good old days I used to buy them brand new from Wyatts of Winchester in Bar End Road for £27.99 - I thought that was bloody robbery.

[electrokid]

I think I have a couple of these - not in great condition though. (And I'll be at the NEC on Sunday if anyone's interested for a fiver each.) I resprayed the ones that are on the car but the rotary wheel-wash at the car wash tends to rub the paint off. If anyone knows of a tough paint that will survive the car wash that would be good news.

[citsncycles]

Did you use proper plastic primer on the trims?

[electrokid]

Good question Mike - can't remember TBH I would normally do so but I may have been in a hurry. The rotary action of the wheel-wash brushes has worn away some of the paint - not sure if the right (or wrong) primer would have made much difference ?

[Tinkley]

Not only are they supplied with the cable tie but lower down the page they are 15" wheel trims!...

[Way2go]

If anyone knows of a tough paint that will survive the car wash that would be good news.

How about using a metallic primer and then getting a local company to powder coat them? That should give you a tough and durable finish.

[Defender110]

This is a bumper but the same technique applies to wheel trims.

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[electrokid]

I thought powder coating was done at high temp - would the plastic survive ?

Sorry Kevan - I can't get to youtube vids - I did respray the bumpers and I definitely used platic primer on those and it worked ok but still is subject to deterioration.

[Way2go]

I thought powder coating was done at high temp - would the plastic survive ?

I only considered the electrostatic application process without thinking about the curing temperature. Probably not a good idea for this reason as you surmise. 200 deg C for 10 mins seems to be required (unless laser curing) according to the following blurb:

Normally the powders cure at 200°C (390°F) for 10 minutes. The curing schedule could vary according to the manufacturer's specifications. The application of energy to the product to be cured can be accomplished by convection cure ovens, infrared cure ovens, or by laser curing process. The latter demonstrates significant reduction of curing time.

[Defender110]

Sorry Kevan - I can't get to youtube vids - I did respray the bumpers and I definitely used plastic primer on those and it worked ok but still is subject to deterioration.

Brian:
Basically he preps the item first by washing it with warm water and rubbing compound to remove residue on NEW plastic. (Old wheel trims will need a suitable sanding down too)
He then sprays 3 coats of plastic primer 2 light and one thicker coat leaving 10 minutes between coats to dry.
Once the primer has dried he applies 3 coats of colour again 2 light and one heavier finish coat with 10 minutes between coats.
He then applies 3 coats of clear lacquer before leaving it a week for all the paint to harden.
After a week he cuts it back with 1200 wet and dry paper before polishing to a nice hard gloss finish with cutting paste and polish to a factory finish.

[electrokid]

Thanks for the description Keven - much appreciated

I was working with an old bumper - it was a spare so there was no urgency to get it back onto the car - and it was already Venetian red anyway so something of a head start there.

I washed it thoroughly with water / detergent and then water / IPA (because that would evaporate quickly and I was probably being an impatient bugger ) Then I applied 2 coats of platic primer (which happened to be red and quite close to Ven red anyway) and 2 coats topcoat. I'm never sure about using more than one coat of primer because it really only interfaces chemically between the plastic and the topcoat - thinking about the old wood painting standard of one primer then 2 or 3 undercoat, then topcoat - it's the undercoat that protects the wood and the topcoat that protects the undercoat - not sure how that translates to car paints.

Thinking about it - the front (which I took my time with) is better than the rear - which I don't have a spare for - so I probably cut corners on that one since it needed to be back on the car.

I think 200 degrees for 10 minutes would leave us with a melted wheeltrim maybe I should try 2 part epoxy ?