BX excess, can it be a success?

[Tinkley]

Mmmm Having only had the twin choke type of carbs on the 14 (150) and the 16, the Solex PBISA is a bit different and the Haynes almost useless on it. However if you can find a good set of drawings of it try and see how to clean the idle jet orifice(s). Carbs use this as part of the mix in transition to main jet in the first quarter of throttle opening and any gumming or crap in there gives a rough engine. Next up is all the main jet atomiser holes, maybe even checking it has the correct atomiser/jet - remember I had a (11 month old) car with NO idle jet, Solex forgot to fit it in the factory. If you can get the mixture screw out clean that too, but not before counting turns in to lock out prior to removal, sorry if grandmothers and eggs but... still worth a clean.

Worth checking float height, but most unlikely OK unless the monkey visited that area. One of my 16s was 7mm out..... due to monkeys reach!

The PBISA Solex would have been used on stuff (K1G TU) from August 88 til the fuel injected TU version in 92, so there should be some good data and drawings on it.

[Mothman]

Just bought a Weber carb for a 1.6 BX on ebay for 28 quid. I gather its only 2 years old. Will this be an easy swap?

[Tinkley]

Sounds more like it's the 1.4, as that will be the only single choke carb engine AFAIK. I believe TB said his 1.6 auto has a Weber... but I don't mind the Solex Z1 even if the auto choke is a bit of a PITA. The non auto choke twin carb Solex on the 150 is a doddle, don't know if you can interchange with the TU unit though, it will breathe a bit differently - cam and timing etc.

[Thread Bear]

1.4E, non-Leader, is a TU unit, I believe. Not the older engine series. But it has this single Solex, as quoted on a list I found in site. Great for economy and simplicity. Bit a low state of tune. The manifold looks little different to the 1.6. The 1.4 appeared in Pugs and the Citroen versions I think. It has a really big bore exhaust front pipe, but reduces to the standard bore rear end.

[Thread Bear]

Pushed for time this weekend. Plus the Trooper suffered its first failure. It locked me out. This looked bad as 4 road cars all dead, two on the verges in the village, looking scruffy. They like to gang up thus. Fortunately it was confined to a duff pipple and the second key reset the alarm and allowed me to turn it off. Bloody alarm systems.

The key (Ha) job was to get the ball bearing into the regulator, and trapped in place by the bleed screw on BX 1.4. I nipped it up on the assumption that whatever had been the problem here was now cleared. Indeed starting the, now willing, engine and the correct Citroen comfort noises were present, only to be followed by that piquant mist and froth of a high pressure leak. I was not greatly surprised, as the car was bought with a reported hemorrhage as a reason for sale/scrap threat.

The car just managed to raise itself before running short of fluid, so there was a rush to get jacks in place. Not quite quick enough, but sufficient to work up onto axle stands. I then watched from the n/s rear of the front wheel, as this showed where the spray was coming from. I could see the four pipes across the back rear of the cross-member had become dislodged. It was like the car had reversed into something while on no suspension at all. Starting the car, however, located the leak to the initial loop round from the safety valve going off to the regulator pipe. The supply pipe, I think. No idea if this is available new. I might be able to salvage one from the scrap TZD if its the same. THe other damage was probably a result of the corroded and failed supply pipe.

The jury is out on the feed to the front height adjuster, as there is moistness in that area. Such a major leak might mask an issue there, and it is a favoured leakage point, not helped by being clouted.

We adjourned indoors to check the diagrams of the system to see if my observation agreed with the data. It seems so. The evenings draw out but none the less it was getting cold and dark. Thereafter I have been cleaning up and re wiring the 1.6 dizzy with copper core HT lead.

A lot of building work to do this week but I might get time to try the rewired HT system on the 1.6. Then trace the LT supply if the problem continues. Need to pull the 1.4 HT set for an evening clean up too.

[Thread Bear]

Crap weather and loads of building work have seen the cars ignored. Finally got time to check out the 1.6 Auto HT system having found enough copper core HT lead to rebuild the nearly new cap. This lead is extinct at local motorist outlets round here but I had enough in scattered in stash to do the task with two bits nicked from dead Invalid Carriages. The inherited carbon HT leads looked very iffy to me. Not got proper ends on.

As it had been stood the car did not want to start. So I resorted to fresh fuel straight down the carb. Sure enough supplied with something more burnable it got it going, and some circuit and bumps were done to clear the engine out and get it warm. Distinctly better with the new HT set up . It now ticked over at about 1000 revs rather than nearly stalling. It was clear we had a lazy cylinder, though.

That evening chum Andrew borrowed the car for a flash round the lanes. Time passed to an ominous length, and the 'phone rang . The BX had failed down a closed road some 6 miles away . So out to see what had happened, in the dark. There is an ongoing issue with the choke flap being out of sequence within the rest of the carb, when part warm. I went for that first. However on Andrew turning the car over to start with me poking the flap, there was a firework of sparks around the top of the coil. Checking the new lead I found it was loose, so got a better fit. Tried again and there was some tracking but a good deal of sparks from the other end, which had now dislodged from the dissy. Bit odd, I thought, bunging the cable back in. That got the engine going. A poke around found the explanation. Andrew hand not secured the battery and it had been able move for and aft to dislodge the leads. Own goal .

Now we were out in the dark, it was a good time to check out the HT leads. I do not know if you have ever done this, but if you have a fault, it will often show up as a glowing lead or joint, tracking or spark. I was not happy about the way the coil had exhibited such an easy route to earth. So we did some revving exercises and pulled each plug lead in turn to provoke a reaction. I was right. Any stress and the coil head was supplying tracking into the loom (no doubt if this car had a brain, that would be enough to kill it).

Job this morning was to take the coil off. Its supplying good energy, as the sparks were pretty long, but on inspection there are marks on the insulation on the top. So a good clean up and I found some old silicon in the root of a dead canister waiting to get lobbed. This has been carefully applied, after cleaning the coil with acetone. It might make matters worse if it de-laminates, of course, but at the moment the engine is very much smoother, and needs retuning, as I expect the mixture is out. That should improve economy. Its still got a lazy cylinder, though. So one of my 'new' leads might be suspect. Switching leads and plugs I established its me. So I need to re-due that lead. Nonetheless the car has noticeably more torque, now. So its no wonder I was unimpressed with the gearbox performance, initially. It was full of old oil and the engine was being a bit pathetic. It now shows it could be a very nice car to drive.

More issues to resolve. The ride hight is determinedly staying high. Needs lubing for a start. Exhaust has gained a blow, up front . I hope that is just a joint, not the pipe. I am struggling with my leg at the moment, and I am very reluctant to go under cars. Need my ramp, great for setting the suspension!! (My leg had enough sorting the replacement, newly collapsed, exhaust system on the Messerschmitt yesterday. Crappo 'good' second hand club parts I had fitted, only to be disappointed I failed to get them to work a second time. So now on a 50 year old silencer and a slightly none standard downpipe. All done rolling around and continually having to get up! My Dr would go nuts .

Anyway it looks like the 1.6 might get back on the road in a week or so . Yet to cut up wood to get to the rest of the cars trapped and thus the spares car, so I can nick parts of it to sort LHM leaks on the 1.4. Next on the list as I think Andrew might go for it (Likes the Auto but the 1.4 is cheaper to run as a first car) .

[Thread Bear]

Reassembled BX 1.6 re built again. Got under and soaked the suspension hieght system. Then some citrobatics. Finally it would set to the correct level on the correct setting. The fluid got right round the system and shifted an impressive dollop of muck.
Sorted and testing a battery we set off for a country lane meander. About an hour of driving and the engine is much happier. The suspension is brilliant. Some more tasks to do but the car is getting there now.

[Thread Bear]

Bit of a major sort out and stock take. New shed, and the need to access the spares car, has seen a car shuffle. I am reminded of work to do.

Gary - needs its strut replaced. Then the clutch changed. It can go back into service.

Miguel - now has a speedo cable again. I have ordered a new rear exhaust set for it, as I need to get at the LHM leak over the rear axle/frame doings. The exhaust is near the end of its time, and with my build I need the space to lie under the car to effect a repair the pipework. I can service all else in the back while I am at it. The height adjuster are now working but a good clean up would be better. The sunroof has been placed shut - it needs the replacement put in at some point. The original carrier has now failed so the old one is not operational.

Pluto - awaits the pipework it needs to resolve its arterial LHM leak. Seems like it might be all systems go after that. Got a very sweet sounding engine on this. Gary Hares did well to rescue and not damage this car, which has good potential to be made better.

Homer - was more than willing to start after a year under a pile of wood, well nearly. He needs a complete exhaust system. I have the front already, the rear bits are on their way. Estate rear boxes seem to be thinning out a bit now. That is there is not always one for sale on eBay. Poor old Homer has GSF front strut returns on. So they have failed. I never finished putting the rear wheel bearing on, so the brake caliper is tied up with a pair of wood wedges in to keep the calipers in place. He is a nail, but he just keeps going.

Egbert - Never a happy starter, the Gti did eventually rumble into life to actually tick over quite well. No obvious faults, two flat tyres, the pay off for alloys. Normal dodgy bulbs and the like. But it really needs a complete check over before the road as it has been unused for a long time, and the seller admitted the engine had not been set up after its rebuild. This car is unlikely to be seen till next year. But better accommodation is nigh.

Walt remains in remote storage. The scrap car, a 1.7td Estate with engine falling out, remains in limbo, could be saved still.

Needs some dry weather and a good set of ramps!

[Thread Bear]

Bad day today.

Got the old exhaust off Miguel, the 1.6 Auto. Thus I could access the rear LHM pipes to find the low pressure leak. Following the pipe it was, of course, the bit that dives behind the rear axle/subframe. It was possible to splice a bit of pipe into the system and not replace the whole for to aft pipe. I got the offender unclipped and in doing so could see that it really needed all four pipes done. At sometime in the passed something had got into the space and impacted the pipes. As I got ready to cut the offending pipe the small amount of strain was enough to take out the high pressure line, LHM mist time. I guess you can splice a pipe up for that but the high pressure pipes are a whole different ball game to the drain back system. I am simply not set up to repair this fault at this time, health, time, tools, so the car has no future here but to sit till I get a ramp sorted out. Bit of an easy job then. Damned annoying having got everything else sorted out with the car performing well.

At least it did not blow out on the road. But I think it might be time to back out of this one. Needs these pipes. The rear two silencer boxes - got a pair available at cost. I think it will MOT. A replacement sunroof set is there, which could be done before use. Drives well and I doubt the need to spend more unless you want to.

I have parked Miguel out of the way and moved on to Gary and his struts. Stopped for coffee. Odd that one of this still carries a bar coded sticker as a replacement part, yet it has apparently failed. With these changed I will have replaced or serviced about half the LHM system and three quarters of the components. It would be awfully nice if it were to drive without dribbling for longer than a month!

Got the parts to sort out Homer. Hopefully that will be more successful.

[Way2go]

............ the high pressure pipes are a whole different ball game to the drain back system. I am simply not set up to repair this fault at this time, health, time, tools, so the car has no future here but to sit till I get a ramp sorted out. Bit of an easy job then.

A ramp will not help, but hinder you on this job, as you need wheels off and ability to hinge the rear subframe down.
You need to use axle stands under the rear jacking points, unclip the offending pipes underneath the length of the car when first raising the car on its near-side before raising the offside onto it's axle stand. Uncover the rearmost subframe boltholes from underneath the boot carpet whilst supporting the weight of the rear subframe on a separate hydraulic jack, then lowering it onto blocks to stop it hinging too far. This gives you the working and manouvering room to get the pipes through that space.

Only you can judge how far gone the other pipes are but using the above method it is possible to change the main front to back pipe without unduly disturbing the others. If the others are too far gone due to rust (or the decaying bodies of rodents in that space) then it would be prudent to replace all while you have created access for the job.

Oh yes & best to spray the pipe union threads with some 3-in-1 Penetrating Oil a while before attempting to undo them.

[Thread Bear]

My problem is the amount of getting up and down and rolling about. My doctor would have me do none of it. Sitting or standing I can do a lot more. Kneeling is not good. Just today has aggravated my leg after walking around an autojumble on Sunday. Its about twice the size it should be. Any bruise or damage and I am off any hard work till its gone, normally two weeks. This is the reality of NHS wrong diagnosis and an untreatable condition. of all the things that could have gone wrong on the car, this was one of the worst for my particular situation. Queue law of sod.

Meanwhile the strut is ready to come off the estate tomorrow. I had to stop to stick my leg in the air. Be pissing all night probably, so not sleep properly. No. a ramp is what I need, even if it is to lie on in the garage! I am buggered if I will give my hobby up.

[Way2go]

My problem is the amount of getting up and down and rolling about. ......Sitting or standing I can do a lot more. Kneeling is not good.

No. a ramp is what I need, even if it is to lie on in the garage!

Not sure what it is you're calling a ramp. Wheel ramps will get in the way of the job! It now sounds like you need a full blown vehicle lift.

[Tinkley]

I'd second W2G's suggestion of replacing all the front to rear pipes if one has gone and you have the rear sub frame dropped or off. When my rear mounts were welded the pipes held up but a few days after repressurising one burst. They are all Cunifer now...... Takes about 15m of 3.5mm Cunifer, though don't hold me to that distance!.

Oddly enough the other pipes to the brakes were fine.

[Thread Bear]

Yes, sorry a car lift is what I meant. I was tired. A special high shed is designed to take it. That to be built this summer. I can then get a lot more done. It was the installation of this which made me think of a sort of workshop day/weekend, as so many folk can fix niggles in a few minutes with access to a lift. The kind you live with when the weathers cold and crappy. Got a good camp site just up the road and great roads to play in, nice pub - though carry outs are so much cheaper. cannot offer a skill set like Bourne to go with it, but I can give you a Sunday rant. Still that is in the future, which seems to be a long way away at the moment!

I did two of the pipes on my old estate, when I was fitter. At the same time it needed the rear pivot bearing kits put in as it was excessively pigeon toed. Like a lot of BX jobs its not especially difficult, but it is a lot of limbo. As observed it is the up and over bit of the pipe which has suffered the most corrosion. The rest of the assembly is OK, but I would not be sending pics as a Chistmas card. I have lubed up the height adjuster which is easy to get at with no exhaust. I would be greasing all the tubes if I were confidant of keeping the car.

It would be silly not to replace all four pipes. Done they can be virtually forgotten. I actually have a set of plastic coated ones on the scrap car. First to get them off.......

[Defender110]

Yup a vehicle lift makes vehicle maintenance just so much easier especially the 2 post type with 4 swing out arms with rubber pads on that swing under the car and raise the whole vehicle off the ground whilst leaving all 4 wheels suspended for easy removal and much more vehicular access than the drive-on type 4 post lifts. Luckily I have access to one of these when I need it.