New BX owner

[jamescarruthers]

Don't forget a pineapple for the roofrack

[alexrossmartin]

A good starting point might be the spheres from a BX 16v, as these will be firmest as standard. This thread gives a bit more information on the different types, although looking at them from the complete opposite point of view!

Cheers! Sportier models will have stiffer spheres then.

I noticed that there is a variation in volume as well as pressure. Is there any reason to use one pressure/volume combination as opposed to another?


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[mat_fenwick]

In a nutshell, the smaller the volume,the more rapid the rise in spring rate - i.e. a smaller sphere will get stiffer through the travel more quickly than a larger one. Meaning that you could run a lower initial pressure for more comfort say, knowing that the spring rate will rise more quickly and hence not bottom out. The same logic applies if you were to restrict suspension travel.

You've also got to bear in mind the damper orifice in the sphere, which I'd guess will be matched to the pressure it's intended to run at. Plenty of food for thought!

[Tinkley]

The factory 'stiffened' up BXs' over the years very slightly by changing the internal orifice sizes, according to the 'tramontana' website data. This I can believe as the differences in orifice sizings are quite small.

Be aware that your car (OP's BX1700) had a failed steering joint and may not have been fully sorted, even if it is driveable and has an MOT. Worth checking the drop link(s) at least and the wishbone bushes as well as the wishbone bolt nuts. Maybe even depressurising and relaxing the strut mountings and taking any stress out before retightening. Note that replacement drop links maybe different sizes (lengths) so replace as a pair. I would also be suspicious of the front spheres, especially the one on the failed corner side as it will almost certainly have lost pressure with the wheel collapse. Again better to change as a matched pair.

[Low Expectations]

Why do you want it to ride as low as possible? If it's for handling, then i think you have quite a bit of work to stop it from bottoming out. If its just for looks, then its not a problem. I can drive mine fully dropped (on smoothish roads) and its fine. I normally drive it at normal height then drop it for posing or just for fun.
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[Tim Leech]

That's what I do, I drive in normal height to enjoy the gorgeous ride (which is why I like Citroens) and when I park I always drop it so it looks cool!

I work for VW and we get some of the young guys in for parts with the cars riding round on the bumps stops with the occupants being shaken and not stirred which looks in my opinion rather daft! We have speed humps too which some of the cars just cant get over!

lack of suspension travel wont help an old car and the BX interior is a little fragile anyway!

[alexrossmartin]

In a nutshell, the smaller the volume,the more rapid the rise in spring rate - i.e. a smaller sphere will get stiffer through the travel more quickly than a larger one. Meaning that you could run a lower initial pressure for more comfort say, knowing that the spring rate will rise more quickly and hence not bottom out. The same logic applies if you were to restrict suspension travel.

You've also got to bear in mind the damper orifice in the sphere, which I'd guess will be matched to the pressure it's intended to run at. Plenty of food for thought!

Awesome, the high pressure small volume ones are the ones I want then. Do you have any idea whether the fronts and rears are interchangeable? The fronts seemed to offer higher pressures.

The factory 'stiffened' up BXs' over the years very slightly by changing the internal orifice sizes, according to the 'tramontana' website data. This I can believe as the differences in orifice sizings are quite small.

Be aware that your car (OP's BX1700) had a failed steering joint and may not have been fully sorted, even if it is driveable and has an MOT. Worth checking the drop link(s) at least and the wishbone bushes as well as the wishbone bolt nuts. Maybe even depressurising and relaxing the strut mountings and taking any stress out before retightening. Note that replacement drop links maybe different sizes (lengths) so replace as a pair. I would also be suspicious of the front spheres, especially the one on the failed corner side as it will almost certainly have lost pressure with the wheel collapse. Again better to change as a matched pair.

I had read that 16vs had stiffer suspension from factory.

I definitely agree with you there! I am going to go over the entire front end as soon as I get the chance. There is a knocking at the moment which I believe to be the outer CV, so that will need to be fixed at a minimum.

I will remember all of that and do it as soon as I can. Where's the best place for parts then? Do euro car parts etc still stock BX parts?

Why do you want it to ride as low as possible? If it's for handling, then i think you have quite a bit of work to stop it from bottoming out. If its just for looks, then its not a problem. I can drive mine fully dropped (on smoothish roads) and its fine. I normally drive it at normal height then drop it for posing or just for fun.
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It's pretty much only visual, since I don't really drive fast and if I do it'll be in my jetta anyway. I would be happy with only a small drop when in the usual driving position but right now it's just too high.

Particularly in the circles i am in, there is much disrespect for so called "hard parkers" who won't drive around with their car slammed.

Possibly it's because of other problems with the suspension but I found that there was absolutely no way I could drive it anywhere on the lowest setting. Ever just parking causes it to bounce around enough for coins to fly out of the trays onto the floor.

It'll be a bit better once the issues are fixed and I can raise and lower it as I please.



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[Tim Leech]

Driving a BX on a low or full height will be the same as having no suspension, and will shake your teeth loose!

[alexrossmartin]

I've already realised that. I'm sure once I've fixed the problem with the height adjustment I won't need to drive it low.


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[Tim Leech]

She may be sitting a little high, best to measure it and get someone else to see what the gaps are on theres.

Or you could come to the National Rally next month and there will be about 30 bx's on show to compare!

[mat_fenwick]

Front and rear spheres are physically interchangeable, although the pressure/damping may not be suitable. Even accumulators spheres will fit, but with no damping whatsoever!

[alexrossmartin]

She may be sitting a little high, best to measure it and get someone else to see what the gaps are on theres.

Or you could come to the National Rally next month and there will be about 30 bx's on show to compare!

I'll do that! What day is the national rally? Would be a nice change of pace from vw shows actually.

I saw that you mentioned you work for VW, doesn't happen to be in the parts department does it?

Front and rear spheres are physically interchangeable, although the pressure/damping may not be suitable. Even accumulators spheres will fit, but with no damping whatsoever!

Cool, that'll be an option for the future if needed.


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[Tim Leech]

I can get parts at cost but I work in vehicle sourcing and distribution.

The National Rally is July 10-12 and is listed on the events page.

[Tinkley]

The diesels are more prone to wearing out the drive shafts as the torque tends to give the splines a harder time. I had a colleague who had to do the shafts on his 19RD at about 180k. Not had a problem with any of my petrol ones yet and have got close to that mileage - 175k on a 1.4.

So you may need to check the shaft not just the CV joint. The hardest things to get apart on the front are in no particular order, the hub nuts, you may need a 1 meter lever..., the droplinks may have to be ground through at the top to remove, and the steering swivel joint from the hub which can sieze.....
Otherwise pretty straightforward.

[alexrossmartin]

The diesels are more prone to wearing out the drive shafts as the torque tends to give the splines a harder time. I had a colleague who had to do the shafts on his 19RD at about 180k. Not had a problem with any of my petrol ones yet and have got close to that mileage - 175k on a 1.4.

So you may need to check the shaft not just the CV joint. The hardest things to get apart on the front are in no particular order, the hub nuts, you may need a 1 meter lever..., the droplinks may have to be ground through at the top to remove, and the steering swivel joint from the hub which can sieze.....
Otherwise pretty straightforward.

Cheers! Even accounting for the length of time the speedo cable has been broken, it shouldn't have done enough to ruin them yet.

From the sounds of it a full tear down is needed. I've got plenty to crack on with now my exams are out the way!




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