Bit of confusion on this, I am replacing a full sill, spot welding as per factory or seam weld?
Mixed views after a Google search some say spot welding a full sill as per factory is ok others say seam others say it's at the MOT Testers discretion.
Replacing full sill-welding requirements
-
- Over 2k
- Posts: 2695
- Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:54 pm
- Location: South Lincs
- My Cars: 90 Bx Tzd turbo ven red 295k
74 D Super 5 black
05 Volvo V50 2.0d 180k
65 Peugeot Boxer work van 280k - x 138
Replacing full sill-welding requirements
90 BX Tzd turbo 294k SORN undergoing major surgery
90 BX Tzd turbo estate 46k awaiting surgery
65 Peugeot Boxer Van the new workhorse
52 Toyota Rav4 180k Bulletproof Jap reliability
90 BX Tzd turbo estate 46k awaiting surgery
65 Peugeot Boxer Van the new workhorse
52 Toyota Rav4 180k Bulletproof Jap reliability
-
- BXpert
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 4:44 pm
- Location: Widnes
- My Cars: 1985 BX 19 GT (DKK), 1971 Morris Minor Traveller, 1971 Commer Auto-Sleeper, 1969 Commer Jennings Roadranger.
'88 BX GTi (a long time ago) - x 128
Re: Replacing full sill-welding requirements
Pretty sure if you're replacing a full panel then as factory is perfectly acceptable. But if you are patching within an existing panel then it has to be seam welded.
I recently replaced the sills on my Mini and no mention was made except how solid it was, although I had cleaned up the plug welds I'd done it was still obvious that was how the panels were fixed. Just be sure that there's plenty of welds to show that it's been fixed properly.
I recently replaced the sills on my Mini and no mention was made except how solid it was, although I had cleaned up the plug welds I'd done it was still obvious that was how the panels were fixed. Just be sure that there's plenty of welds to show that it's been fixed properly.



