GT mediated Awesomeness

[panky]

Sounds nice when it does run.

[saintjamesy89]

She's a good'un. The fact that both the GT and TRS do pretty much the same, with dashboards out and some fuseboard connections unplugged makes me think it is potentially related to that, so I won't worry too much until everything is back together.

[saintjamesy89]

So the loom is pretty much sorted in the GT now, the other loose/suspect crimped section near the bulkhead has been moved inside by the fuseboard. Any other crimped sections have been inspected, wrapped in tape and secured for hopefully a long and trouble free future!

The TRS' loom is back in and slightly tidied, although it needs more sorting by the fuseboard - its messy and some wires are a little short, so I will need to undo the tape on the engine bay sections and make sure there is enough slack/length etc.

I installed the 'normally closed' vacuum solenoid on the GT, perhaps its a little large/over-specced but I didn't really know what to look for or what to buy! Fundamentally though, when the valve receives 12v it will allow vacuum to raise the idle to compensate for the compressor drag when the a/c is on. The new carb came with this 'idle puller', unfortunately back along I did buy a NOS (expensive!) part ready for the a/c install so I do have a spare.
I wired the solenoid into the a/c compressor clutch trigger wire, thinking that clutch engaged = idle raised to avoid too low an idle or even a stall, they joy of carburettors and a/c! I mounted the solenoid on the engine mount support, handy nut/bolt nearby for a earth too.

I have ordered some larger ID vacuum lines, the 3.5mm I had is quite a bit too small for this unfortunately.





That is all now until after we get back from France, we're off towards the end of next week and won't be back until July. It will be a race to finish this I think before the National on the 11th July! The remaining work is for both cars - drain coolant, HVAC out, cut GT bulkhead then install the a/c HVAC into the GT, remove and clean condenser and reassemble everything else. I have 3 full days to achieve this, perhaps it's doable?

If there is time I would like to test the system myself. The drier pressure sensor has 4 wires, 12v in and 3 sensor outputs. My understanding:

1. <2bar = too low pressure = no refrigerant, fans in series (slow speed) but compressor off to protect the system when there is insufficient/no gas.
2. 2-26bar = operating pressure = fans in series (slow speed) and compressor on (controlled by evaporator temp sensor).
3. >26bar = too high pressure = fans in parallel (high speed) and compressor off to allow the pressure to come back down to operating (17bar).

So applying 12v (or bridging the 12v feed to the sensor output wires) with the engine off, with everything connected, ignition on and interior a/c switch on I should be able to manipulate the system and get the desired outcomes. Hopefully any issues will be either dodgy relays or switches, I do have a brand new pressure switch to install.
If there is time I would also like to get the system vacuum tested and filled with R134a just in case it all wants to work!

There is always the C6 for the national but...