rear axle removal

[rutter123]

hi all, is it possible to drop the rear axle from a bx without disconnecting all the pipes? i need to do some welding work to the rear axle mounting area o/s, need to drop the axle enough to get a grinder in and cut the rust away, i welded the n/s a few years back but didnt need to drop the axle as the rust was only a small patch, any help appreciated thanx

[toddao]

You can drop it a bit without touching the pipes but you wouldn't get enough clearance for the grinder or for the welding rig I think. I always like the maximum possible space for such things. There's a certain amount of 'give' in the pipes but if they're a bit crusty or the drop is too far I wouldn't chance it. Perhaps put a trolley jack under the axle with a piece of wood then gradually lower it then you'll see in real time what is actually happening to the pipes! Also that means you can get it back in place ( I'm assuming that you haven't got a lift?) quite easily without breaking your back.

[citronut]

as long as you carefully unclip the pipes all the way from back to front except maybe the furthest forward clip block, along the chassis rail you can then lower the rear sub frame a good couple of foot,

obviously you also need to remove both exhaust box's, hockey stick and disconnect the height rod from the actuator on the rear sub frame,

i have just a couple of weeks ago performed this same thing to Gloria, as she required a couple of small patch's above the sub frame, along with replacing the front to rear pipes

regards malcolm

[rutter123]

as long as you carefully unclip the pipes all the way from back to front except maybe the furthest forward clip block, along the chassis rail you can then lower the rear sub frame a good couple of foot,

obviously you also need to remove both exhaust box's, hockey stick and disconnect the height rod from the actuator on the rear sub frame,

i have just a couple of weeks ago performed this same thing to Gloria, as she required a couple of small patch's above the sub frame, along with replacing the front to rear pipes

regards malcolm

thanx for that malcolm, so if i put the rear end on axle stands i should be able to drop the axle onto the floor with the pipes unclipped? the front to rear pipes have all been replaced with pipes made up by plaedies (the non steel quite bendy type) so i guess this would make it a little easier/less risky, im going to rebuild the rear arms whilst its out, i assume that all components are fixed onto the axle itself like height corrector and compensator, and im sure once its out more horror stories of rust will rear their ugly heads.

[rutter123]

You can drop it a bit without touching the pipes but you wouldn't get enough clearance for the grinder or for the welding rig I think. I always like the maximum possible space for such things. There's a certain amount of 'give' in the pipes but if they're a bit crusty or the drop is too far I wouldn't chance it. Perhaps put a trolley jack under the axle with a piece of wood then gradually lower it then you'll see in real time what is actually happening to the pipes! Also that means you can get it back in place ( I'm assuming that you haven't got a lift?) quite easily without breaking your back.

no toddao no luxuries like that just a high lift 5 ton trolley jack, axle stands , blocks of wood and a concrete hard standing, a lot of swearing, cold numb fingers and bleeding knuckles, the pipes are fairly new and not steel (supplied by plaedies) so this could be an advantage.

[citronut]

i support the rear end by feeding a length of scaffold tube through the two brackets at the very rear end of the chassis rails, the tow eye brackets but put the tube through the larger holes in the brackets, then place two large axle stands under that,

then as you lower the sub frame with a length of timber across you jack, you will need to find the balance point of the sub frame as it is best it comes out and back up square, so all the mounting studs clear and re/enter at the same time'ish,

it also pays the remove the self tapper screw from the rear most height lever rod were it goes toward to rear sub frame, as you will need to guide this past the sub frame as you lower it,

and yes all the rear suspension components are attached to the sub frame ( height corrector and suspension units )

on re/assembling mind non of the pipes are touching each other or any part of the car body, otherwise they will chaff through

regards malcolm

[rutter123]

i support the rear end by feeding a length of scaffold tube through the two brackets at the very rear end of the chassis rails, the tow eye brackets but put the tube through the larger holes in the brackets, then place two large axle stands under that,

then as you lower the sub frame with a length of timber across you jack, you will need to find the balance point of the sub frame as it is best it comes out and back up square, so all the mounting studs clear and re/enter at the same time'ish,

it also pays the remove the self tapper screw from the rear most height lever rod were it goes toward to rear sub frame, as you will need to guide this past the sub frame as you lower it,

and yes all the rear suspension components are attached to the sub frame ( height corrector and suspension units )

on re/assembling mind non of the pipes are touching each other or any part of the car body, otherwise they will chaff through

regards malcolm

cant use a scaffold pole got a towbar fitted but could support it under the towbar itself, sounds fairly straightforward, may give it a bash this weekend if weather permits as mot due january, thanx for advice