how difficult is it to repair/replace the hieght mechanism on the drivers seat i can feel it moving a little if i slide forward on the seat but as for wanting to move on the lever nothing its as though a linkage has come adrift sure i read on the FCF a "how to do" thread but the details are a bit hazy although i presume i need to take the seat out
colin
xantia drivers seat
-
- Confirmed BX'er
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:47 pm
- Location: Poole Dorset
-
- Sir Jim of the Databases
- Posts: 788
- Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 9:08 pm
- Location: Newport Pagnell
- x 2
This will be caused by a a crack in the seat riser frame Colin.
I had exactly the same on my old Pug 405 and had to take out the seat, carefully remove the upholstery and weld it. The repair was totally successful. and it is not nearly as tricky as it sounds...
A word of caution though: If your car has airbags and seatbelt pre-tensioners, disarm the airbags by disconnecting the battery for at least 10 minutes before commencing work and before any welding on seat frames, remove the belt pre-tensioners. They're pyrotechnic devices and it's not wise to weld in their vicinity
Whilst you're there, it is also an odds-on bet you'll find the screws that hold the seat squab to the frame will all be loose and will benefit greatly from being given a good tighten up although if you need the frame welded, all these screws will need to come out in any case to remove the squab.
Again, whilst you're there, check the seat mountings in the car chassis rails. The metal is a bit on the thin side and it is not unknown for the captive nuts to tear right out of the chassis rails. This is not Xantia-specific but endemic in all Pugs and Cits of this age. I've had to repair my 205 and my old 405 here and it is best done by welding in a new plates to hold the captive nuts. The repair needs to be good as the seatbelt effectively goes through these mounts. The pain is removing the carpets to get to it and effect the repair.
Loose seats are a dead-cert MOT failure so well worth checking and resolving.
I had exactly the same on my old Pug 405 and had to take out the seat, carefully remove the upholstery and weld it. The repair was totally successful. and it is not nearly as tricky as it sounds...
A word of caution though: If your car has airbags and seatbelt pre-tensioners, disarm the airbags by disconnecting the battery for at least 10 minutes before commencing work and before any welding on seat frames, remove the belt pre-tensioners. They're pyrotechnic devices and it's not wise to weld in their vicinity
Whilst you're there, it is also an odds-on bet you'll find the screws that hold the seat squab to the frame will all be loose and will benefit greatly from being given a good tighten up although if you need the frame welded, all these screws will need to come out in any case to remove the squab.
Again, whilst you're there, check the seat mountings in the car chassis rails. The metal is a bit on the thin side and it is not unknown for the captive nuts to tear right out of the chassis rails. This is not Xantia-specific but endemic in all Pugs and Cits of this age. I've had to repair my 205 and my old 405 here and it is best done by welding in a new plates to hold the captive nuts. The repair needs to be good as the seatbelt effectively goes through these mounts. The pain is removing the carpets to get to it and effect the repair.
Loose seats are a dead-cert MOT failure so well worth checking and resolving.
Jim
'98 Xantia 1.9TD in Red - Gabriel the Bus...
'96 Xantia Activa in Red - My favourite toy...
'07 Pug 207 in Blue - The Deathtrap...
'15 Giant Defy Bike in Blue - Daily rider...
'16 Giant TCR Bike in Black/Lime Green - Fine weather only...
'98 Xantia 1.9TD in Red - Gabriel the Bus...
'96 Xantia Activa in Red - My favourite toy...
'07 Pug 207 in Blue - The Deathtrap...
'15 Giant Defy Bike in Blue - Daily rider...
'16 Giant TCR Bike in Black/Lime Green - Fine weather only...
-
- BXpert
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 1:05 pm
Colin,
Are you referring to the seat not being able to keep it up
In this case the fix is usually much simpler - remove the side trim from the seat and the height lever (think it just pulls off). Recover the two M4 bolts from under the seat and refit them to the height lever (with a bit of thread lock to stop them falling out again. Job done ISTR it's a bit of a fiddle getting the screws back in (you have to work against the spring in the height mech) but overall pretty easy.
Are you referring to the seat not being able to keep it up
In this case the fix is usually much simpler - remove the side trim from the seat and the height lever (think it just pulls off). Recover the two M4 bolts from under the seat and refit them to the height lever (with a bit of thread lock to stop them falling out again. Job done ISTR it's a bit of a fiddle getting the screws back in (you have to work against the spring in the height mech) but overall pretty easy.
I NEED a BX TD.
-
- Confirmed BX'er
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:47 pm
- Location: Poole Dorset
-
- Confirmed BX'er
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:47 pm
- Location: Poole Dorset
quick update
seat now raises and lowers and stays in position
the bolts are very fiddly but i found that by putting a long screw through the holes from the back on the rear most hole meant i could align front one and put bolt in
to get to rear one seat needs to be lowered and with screw in place the holes stay aligned
cheers
colin
seat now raises and lowers and stays in position
the bolts are very fiddly but i found that by putting a long screw through the holes from the back on the rear most hole meant i could align front one and put bolt in
to get to rear one seat needs to be lowered and with screw in place the holes stay aligned
cheers
colin